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Having seen a variety of different boarding pass STDs/invites/RSVPs, I have decided to have a go at my own. And here it is! :) I have done it in a template style so the specific information needs to be filled in. The 'passenger receipt' is designed to be detached so that the RSVP will then be the legal size of a postcard, perfect for popping back in the post once completed. Let me know your thoughts :)
By Erica OBrien
Photos by Brooke Allison Photography
Here's the recipe that you'll need to make these stained glass cookies or monogram cookie cake!
Stained Glass Cookie Recipe
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 tablespoon corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, cream together butter and sugars until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add corn syrup and vanilla extract, mixing until incorporated. Add egg and mix until light and smooth, about 1 minute on medium speed.
2. Sift together flour, salt, and baking powder. Fold dry ingredients into wet mixture. Use electric mixer to blend just until flour is incorporated.
3. Divide dough in half and flatten into two disks. Wrap disks in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least an hour and up to 2 days.
I did NOT create this but I think its So cool and such a GREAT DIY that I had to share. here is the original blog. She did a FAB job!!!
I absolutely love the way that they turned out. I inserted the photo into Microsoft Word and enlarged it to the width of the template that I made. This photo that I took of it certainly doesn't do it any justice! It looks much better in person!
Now for my instructions for making these!
A heavy piece of cardstock, plastic, cardboard
One of your envelopes
Glue stick (or some kind of adhesive)
You'll need a heavy piece of cardstock, plastic, cardboard etc. to make your template since you will be tracing around it many times in the future. I chose to use 110 lb. cardstock. You'll also need one of your envelopes to begin your template.
2. I began by lining up my envelopes with the piece of cardstock in one of it's corners (less cutting!).
3. Trace the envelope onto the piece of cardstock.
4. Next, you'll want to measure how wide the adhesive portion of your envelope flap is. You want to do this to determine how much to cut off your template, otherwise you'll overlap the adhesive on the envelope flap and won't be able to seal your envelopes once finished. For me, it measured 1 cm.
5. From your now traced line on your cardstock, measure that width inward on your template and mark it with your pencil. Continue to do this along the sides. I did about three marks on each side.
(You can kind of see my marks here.)
6. Place your envelope on top of your cardstock at the marks that you just made and trace the envelope flap again.
7. Cut out your template. Cut on your SECOND traced line.
8. At this point when I tried to put the template into the envelope itself, it wouldn't on the side very well, so I decided to cut off 1 cm on each side of the template.
9. Insert your newly made template into your envelope to see how it measure up and make any adjustments as needed. For me, I decided to fold my template in half vertically to make sure they lined up evenly. There were a few places where I decided to cut to little more off to make sure the sides were even.
Finding the right wedding dress is probably the most crucial thing for any bride-to-be. Unfortunately, the search for the perfect dress is both tricky and frustrating – often because brides are not really sure which type of dress they should be looking for.
To get a dress with the perfect fit, it’s essential to choose one which suits your body shape and flatters your figure. This will not only make you more comfortable, but you’ll also look and feel more beautiful.
Every bride will find there PERFECT dress and it might be the complete opposite of what’s here. I just wanted to post it as a somewhat of a guide. ♥
An hourglass figure is one where your top and bottom halves are perfectly balanced, with a very defined waist.
Dress Dos: Often seen as a body shape which can wear anything, it’s still best to pick a dress that accentuates your waist, as this will show off your best asset. Two-piece gowns, will enhance an hourglass figure.
Dress Dos: Hourglass figures also look great in corset dresses
Dress Dos: If you’re a bit more curvaceous, try a mermaid or trumpet style dress
Dress Don’ts: As your chest and hips are already balanced it’s best not to add weight to either half. Avoid empire-line silhouettes and ball gowns.
If you are a triangle shape, you are wider on the top of your body, with hips narrower than your shoulders.
Dress Dos: A v-neck dress works well to cover up wider shoulders.
Dress Dos: Narrow wide shoulders with thick straps
Dress Dos: Sleeves are great for covering wider shoulders, and are perfect for winter weddings.
Dress Dos: Add interesting details, such as embroidery and bows, around the middle and bottom of your dress, as this forces the eye downwards.
Dress Don’ts: Puffed sleeves will draw attention to your shoulders, as will halter and off-the-shoulder necklines. If you want to avoid drawing attention to an amble bosom, steer clear of embroidery and lapels around the neckline.
More voluptuous than most, apple shapes have full breasts, a bit of a tummy and a rounder bum and hips.
Dress Dos: An empire-line dress, will de-emphasise your waist, giving you a leaner look.
Dress Dos: A ball gown will cover up all the bad bits
Dress Dos: An A-line dress with a dropped waist looks great on everyone.
Dress Don’ts: Princess-line and basque dresses draw too much attention to your middle, and a sheath will make you look heavier. Avoid spaghetti straps which can cut into your shoulders.
Just like the fruit, you’re smaller on top than the bottom, with hips wider than your shoulders.
Dress Dos: Princess style dresses disguise fuller hips and put the focus on your better half, balancing your torso and bust.
Dress Dos: Strapless ball gowns work like princess dresses, emphasising all your best bits.
Dress Dos: Empire line dresses are also fab, as they highlight the smallest part of your body.
Dress Don’ts: Avoid tiered, trumpet and mermaid style dresses which draw attention to your bottom. Sheaths are also unflattering.
5’1” and under - you’ve got a tiny frame.
Dress Dos: Simple is best. Clean, unbroken contours without too much fabric will elongate your figure. A sheath, is perfect.
Dress Dos: Narrow A-line dresses also work well for petite brides
Dress Don’ts: Most silhouettes flatter your figure, but ballgowns and mermaid dress tend to overwhelm. A big, elaborate dress can look as if it’s wearing you.
For a fun holiday project, I figured I’d try my hand at a different take on the very popular brooch bouquet. I chose instead to make a bouquet out of holiday decorations. There was about a 50/50 shot starting out on this project that it would end horribly. But fortunately it turned out just as I would have wanted it to. It has all the charm and sparkle of a brooch bouquet, a beautiful sculptural feeling, and costs FAR less to create. Because I can’t ever decide on one project (there were seriously about 5 possible iterations), I threw in a sparkly bridesmaid bouquet as well (next post). I wanted to keep this one classy so I only picked ornaments that looked like flowers and tried to keep it sparkly but monochromatic.
Materials – All from Hobby Lobby:
6 Lily shaped bell ornaments
4 Glitter snowflakes (Mine had two different patterns)
7 Bundles of silver filler flowers (pine needles and sparkly berry clusters)
White floral wire stems
White floral tape
Silver floral wire (I used a medium gauge jewelry wire)
Magazine, paper towel, hot glue (Optional)
Wire cutters and needle nosed pliers
I started by preparing the pieces:
I cut the bundles of filler foliage into two pieces (they were attached in such a way that this was very easy). I folded the heavier gauge white wire in half, laid it beside the stem, and taped them together with floral tape to elongate the stem. You could easily cut these bundles into even more individual pieces for more controlled placement or to make them go a little farther.
For the lilies, I had to get more creative. They were originally intended to be flower shaped bells. I inverted them, cut out the crystal piece, and snipped the string. I figured the most secure way to attach a stem was by passing it through the entire flower. Using the hole that was already in the crystal, I passed the silver wire through in a figure 8 shape and pulled tightly. This made a knot on either side of the crystal. Then, holding the wires together about an inch from the crystal with a pair of needle nosed pliers, I twisted until the wire was tightened closely to the crystal. I re-positioned the pliers in one inch increments down the wires and continued to twirl to combine the two wires into one. I cut off the end of the flower and made a hole to pass the wire through. Then I hot glued the crystal in place to stabilize the entire piece.
Finally, for the snowflakes, I used the method commonly used for brooch bouquets. I cut a long length of wire and folded it in half with the center wrapped around one arm of the snowflake. Then I grasped the wires with the pliers as I did for the crystals and twirled to tighten the wire. I repeated this with arm of the snowflake immediately across from the one I just wired. The more of these you do, the stronger and more pose-able your flower will be. I only did two here but the others I did 3. Then, I twisted all the wires together using the pliers again.
I arranged my bouquet in a vase as I did in my last project. I put all the lilies in place and then twisted together their wires. I actually really liked the look of just the lilies. It was like a sculpture. But I opted to keep adding to it. I added in the snowflakes and twisted their wires into the bundle. Then it was just a matter of strategically placing the fillers to make the arrangement fuller. In some places I had to use hot glue to tack the flowers together to get them to hold where I wanted them.
Once I had all the wires and stems collected together, I wrapped them in a lot of floral tape to keep the bundle together. The problem with these arrangements is that the stem bundle is very spindly and, in my case, tapered. To add bulk to the handle of the bouquet, I wrapped a catalog around the wires and taped it in place. I then wrapped the whole thing in a bunch of the floral tape to hold it tight and make the base white. But before I could wrap it in ribbon, I had to address the ugly, hollow bottom. I took a doubled up square of white paper towel and put it across the hole in the bottom. Then I used the tape to secure around it and help meld it into the overall shape of the bouquet.
All that was left was to wrap the bouquet. I chose a shimmery, semi-translucent ribbon. I folded the ribbon over itself a few times and then glued it across the bottom. I taped around it as I had done with the paper towel. Then starting at the bottom of the handle, I hot glued the ribbon in place and then started wrapping at a slight angle upward very tightly. When I got to the top, I tacked it in place with hot glue again. Then I wrapped it back to the bottom, glued, and back up to the top. This was necessary for me because my ribbon was somewhat transparent. I tacked it with hot glue one last time at the top and then tucked the tail of the ribbon into the arrangement. At this point you could add more detail, contrasting ribbon, flower pins, etc. I wanted this one to be very sleek to complement the style of the bouquet.
Cost breakdown: Lilies (6 x $3.99), Snowflakes (4 x $3.67), Filler (7 x $3.27), Ribbon ($3.99), Silver Wire ($2.99) , White Wire ($2.99), Floral Tape ($1.99). This amounts to $73.47. I got all the ornaments and the ribbon on sale for half off so the actual cost was $40.72. This is less expensive than a brooch bouquet by a long shot!
<3 Season @ acoloradocourtship.com
To see a bridesmaid bouquet: http://www.acoloradocourtship.com/2012/11/25/holiday-bouquet-the-bridesmaids/
How to make your own candles.
For the Mold:
I use PVC pipe from Home Depot or Lowes etc in the diameter size you need and get the length based on how many you want to make at a single go. Yes these can be re-used!
Also I forgot to add that you can turn ANYTHING into a mold including cookie cutters. following this method of tracing and taping a bottom. So many of us need personal favors for our weddings.
Candle wax from Micheal’s or another Craft store also avail online. Buying candle wax in bulk is cheaper.
Coloring either Crayola crayons or Candle dye wax
Scent I don't use this, but you can!
Wick sold on the spool since you are doing a lot
Quarters, Washers or special wick base holders
plastic lids the size of the PVC
Use a cutting Dremel tool bit to slice the height you want for the PVC mold.
As for the bottom you use the plastic lid of a can like: Pringles, coffee oatmeal etc and cut a disk the same size of the PVC and duct tape it to the bottom of the pipe.
Now grease the inside with shortening of the vegetable variety You can wash off residue with soap and water with care not to wet the wick.
Note: You can also buy Soy melting pellets or bees wax from Micheal’s or online.
Melt according to directions if you do not have directs then this is what my Grandmother Herrmann taught me to do.
Get a double boiler and put the water so that it is just below the resting pot and place the wax on top and put it on the flame/burner to Medium High heat and stir wax with wooden spoon until melted
You can add Candle coloring or use Crayola crayons until the desired color is achieved. Grandma always used Crayola Crayons with me.
You can also add Candle scents if you like, I tend not to add scents to mine.
Now you will need a wick that is attached to a disk or you can use a quarter and the wick tied and glued with a drop of Hot Glue or Tacky glue to the top of the quater. So the knott and the wick are able to be enclosed by the wax.
Elmer's is not strong enough to it to weight it down
And now use a pencil to hang across the top of the PVC and affix the wick to the middle of the pencil.
You can tie, or tape the wick to the pencil and make sure the wick is also in the middle of the mold. A bit of tape on can help keep the pencil from moving.
Please check to be sure the quarter is resting flat at the bottom middle of the can.
Now when the wax is all melted and the right color has been achieved pour just a quarter cup of wax into the can and let cool for 2 to 3 minutes this will help set the wick in the center
now using the quarter cup measure slowly pour in the wax until it reaches the top so as not to get any bubble is the wax.
Let the candle cool over night in a cool and dry place, be careful if you set it out on a porch that the weather is not colder then 45 degrees as it could cause the wax to become brittle.
To remove candle detach the bottom tape and carefully push the candle out of the mold and if it is being stubborn put into the freezer for 10 minutes and try again.
If it is still sticking try a little warm water run on the outside of the mold and push again. If that does not work then you did not grease the inside well enough. Do not fear your wax is recoverable. You can melt the wax out of the mold in a pot of hot not boiling water and the wax will melt out. Now stand to let cool. Once cooled the wax will be on top and you can retrieve with a slotted spoon and turn out onto a paper towel and once dry re-melt in a double boiler.
I have not used this link, but I thought it maybe helpful.
Here is a link from the WWW that you can also read about http://www.squidoo.com/do-it-yourself-how-to-make-candles
This how to was created and written by Bridie Pearce as taught to her by her grandmother Margaret A. Herrmann 1926-2010